We spend twelve days in the Ngorongoro Crater, in the Serengeti and in Zanzibar
This post also contains advertising. I am only describing my own observations in this blog post.
Arrival and entry
Ethiopian Airlines flies from Frankfurt with a stopover in Addis Ababa to Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania. Shortly before landing, Mount Meru, the local mountain, greets us. Kilimanjaro is still shrouded in clouds. Since we have already received our visa as an e-visa in Germany, we are quickly passing through passport control. Our suitcases are already at hand. Let the adventure begin!
Among the Maasai
We spend two nights at the Osiligilai Maasei Lodge. We are greeted with songs and fresh “cow’s blood”, in this case hibiscus juice. We are accommodated in a bungalow that is modeled as a traditional boma, a Maasai house. Maasai houses are built of wooden piles in a circle. The spaces between them are plastered with a mixture of clay, dried cow dung and water. The roof is made of straw. In winter it keeps you warm and in summer it is cool inside.
At sunset we are led to a nearby hill and Maasai women and men sing and dance for us. The men perform their famous high jumps. Now Mount Kilimanjaro also shows itself in the light of the setting sun. What a magnificent sight. Only glaciers are barely visible.
Amboseli Reserve
In the morning, the first game drive is scheduled. We go to the Amboseli Reserve. In contrast to the Amboseli National Park, the Maasai are allowed to live here, herd their animals and hunt in a controlled manner. Maasai do not eat game meat, so the animal populations are not decimated by them.
This day is the “Giraffe Day” for us. At first, we see only one, then more and more. By the end of the day trip we have seen at least 40 of the graceful animals with their long necks. Again and again, we meet the pretty zebras and baboons.
On the way back to the camp, we marvel at the bee project, which was financed by the German tour operator Chamäleon: A Maasai village was repeatedly threatened by elephants and the harvest was destroyed. Now beehives were hung up on the typical path of the large animals. When the bees are disturbed by the elephants, they sting inside the trunk, among other parts of the elephants. This keeps the elephants away from this route. So, they are no longer killed by the Maasai and the people get honey on top of that. Win-win situation! Achieve a lot with simple means.
Ngorongoro Region
A long journey lies ahead of us. We will spend the next two days near the Ngorongoro Crater. About halfway along a very well-developed road, partly it is the Trans – Africa Highway, we reach
The village Mto Wa Mbu
in which many different tribesmen and religions live – and work together peacefully and amicably. Among other things, rice, beans, tomatoes and other vegetables are grown. We get an explanation how to brew banana beer and later we can enjoy a real Tanzanian buffet. All dishes are traditionally cooked over an open fire. There are a lot of vegetables and chicken or beef as meat.
On the way to the next accommodation, we stop at the Ngorongoro Crater viewpoint and are allowed to take a first look down. So, we’ll take a closer look at it tomorrow! A little later we stop briefly at the Grzimek monument. Bernhard Grzimek was, among other things, a zoologist who made an extraordinary contribution to protect the Serengeti and preserving the animals.
Ngorongoro-Crater
We spend the next two nights at the Ngorongoro Wildcamp,
The camp consists of large tents with a brick bathroom and lodging buildings with the restaurant and the spa. After dark, no one is allowed to move around the camp without the company of a Maasai. We quickly know why. Directly in front of our tent a herd of zebras graze peacefully, someone else reports two giraffes and hyenas are probably also frequent guests.
In the morning, we start early to the Ngorongoro Crater with its approx. 25,000 mammals, although the mice that scurry past us from time to time were probably not counted. Only 200 jeeps are allowed to enter the park per day, which must obtain a permit in advance.
Right at the entrance we see the rear end of an elephant disappearing into the bushes. Warthogs dig on the shore of the salt lake and almost white flamingos search for food in the water.
We continue on a kind of ring path through the crater, which has a diameter of about 21× 17 km and is about 600 m lower than the crater rim. Actually, it is a caldera, i.e. a volcano that has collapsed.
Animals in the crater
Soon a hyena crosses our path, left and right zebras and buffaloes graze completely unimpressed in front of the “tin cans” that stop in front of them again and again. About halfway along the circular route, i.e. on the other side of the crater, there is an information center with toilets. Right next door is a small freshwater lake with hippos and picnic tables. The kites (predator birds) have already figured out that there is something to be gained there, as they make downright nosedives on unsuspecting tourists in order to steal their food. We watch briefly and drive on.
Why do so many jeeps stop there? Robinson, our driver, has long since found out with the radio, a rather well-fed lioness lies right next to the path. She, too, is not at all interested in all the tourists in her jeeps.
A few minutes further on, we can observe a rhinoceros with our binoculars before we drive to a quiet picnic area for our lunch break. A bit off the beaten track, we are surprised by a lovingly laid table and a real buffet! Wow! In the middle of the wilderness, we didn’t expect it! The food tastes wonderful. From the trees we are watched by some vervet monkeys, who probably hope to be able to dust off a little.
In one area of the crater there is even a kind of forest. We are thrilled, because some elephant cows linger there with their calves, looking for food.
The afternoon is already well advanced, so it’s back to camp. Already on the first day of the safari we got to see four of the five “Big 5”!
The next morning a long drive over bumpy roads awaits us. It goes to the
Serengeti
School
From the rather green crater rim landscape, we go through the land of the Maasai with their herds of animals, between which zebras and buffaloes graze from time to time, to another project, which is financed by Chamaeleon (German tour operator)..
A pre-school with boarding school for Maasai children who would otherwise not be able to attend school because the parents cannot finance the school fees and the school uniform, or who live so far away that the children could not make the way to school.
We are expected with singing, then some of the preschool children show us what they have already learned. Then it’s our turn! We sing a German kids song “Bunnies in the Pit” for the little ones and of course jump at the right place. The children think it’s so great that we must sing it again right away.
At the Ikoma Wildcamp
Shortly before sunset we reach the camp where we will spend one night. Our large, fixed tents with a large bathroom stand on stilts. Here, too, we are no longer allowed to move alone after dark.
The restaurant is located on a hill, from there you have a fantastic view over the savannah landscape around us. Since the sun has already disappeared quickly, we now see the lights of other camps or villages in the darkness. Then we only hear the sounds of the nocturnal animals, which can only be heard in Africa.
In the morning, we get up early. Before we´ll get our breakfast two rangers with rifles accompany us on foot through the surroundings of the camp
In the distance we can see a huge herd of wildebeest and zebra grazing peacefully. Suddenly all of them are startled and start running. What a sight! How must it look, when the really big herds set off on their hike to the Maasai Mara!
We see traces of the animals, their different legacies, vultures in the sky, not far in front of us again some giraffes and antelopes. Then we arrive at the Grumeti River, which serves as a watering place for all the animals here.
On the ascent to the last hill, we have to climb a lonely buffalo stands nor far away. Our ranger in front now becomes very restless, as individual buffaloes like to attack. They are old males who can no longer follow the herd and are unpredictable. The two rangers try to chase him away, which they succeed in.
Moving on. Directly at the edge of the camp we find a zebra that was still alive yesterday. A lion has hunted it here, so close to the people, and eaten most of it.
Now we also know why we are not allowed to walk through the camp alone at night!
After a refreshing shower, shortly after 9 a.m. it is already almost 30 degrees Celsius, we go to the restaurant for brunch and are allowed to catch up on a little sleep in our tents.
On safari in the Serengeti
At noon we set off into the vastness of the Serengeti. Our two drivers of the two jeeps act quite mysteriously. What do you think they have learned at the “bush radio”? Both have put on their poker faces and off they go.
It feels like we’re crisscrossing the area and then we see them! Several lionesses and a magnificent male are lying under two trees. Did they tear the zebra? Our arrival only elicits a yawn from them, the blinking is almost too much. Canned food? Too tedious. How good for us in our tin “cans”.
Countless photos later, the two drivers finally want to go. A few bends later, the next lions lie right next to the path. Wow! We certainly didn’t expect that!
So, keep taking photos or just enjoy the view. The roofs of the jeeps are always open during the safaris, so we have an unobstructed view of the animals and the surroundings. The windows can also be opened completely. That makes the perspective sometimes different.
Until we arrive at the next camp, we see many animals. The peacefully grazing zebras and wildebeests, individual antelopes and a large herd of hippos on a wide river. A thunderstorm rumbles in the background, the hippos grunt in front of us. Hopefully no lightning will ignite the dry grass of the Serengeti! There are also many young hippos. None of the animals seem to be bothered by the rumbling of the thunderstorm and the lightning. They don’t even notice us and our clicking cameras.
The rain is not yet coming, but the dark clouds are with us. It must have rained from time to time in the last few days, because there are sometimes large puddles on the paths, which also serve as watering places for the animals.
A jackal appears in front of us and after an emergency brake a little further we see a serval taking its nap right next to the path. Unfortunately, he feels disturbed, for which you can’t blame him, who likes it when you watch him sleep and so he trolls himself. Such a cute “kitten”! We would never have seen it alone, but nothing escapes the trained eyes of our driver.
With sunset we reach the
Serengeti Wildebeest Camp
Again, we will spend two nights in these permanent tents with a large bathroom in the middle of the Serengeti. These are standing on the ground, here too, no step alone after sunset for the tourists! For now, however, the sky seems to open all the floodgates. A thunderstorm and torrents of rain come down. It’s really homely in our tent. For dinner in the restaurant tent, we are picked up with large umbrellas.
Balloon flight over the Serengeti
The next morning starts early! Shortly after 5 a.m., five of us are picked up at the camp to take to the air at sunrise. For 45 minutes we drive through the Serengeti in complete darkness to the starting point of the balloons. How the driver knows his way around here and always takes the right turn is an absolute mystery to me!
About 80 tourists are already there and are assigned to the individual balloons. There is always room for 16 people in one basket. With a lot of noise, air is blown into the huge balloons, then everything happens very quickly. The burner is on, and the pilot has the lines cut. The balloon rises silently into the sky. Only now and then does the burner hiss when hot air is blown in.
The sun has long since risen over the Serengeti, which always happens very quickly near the equator, unfortunately it is very cloudy. But the visibility is good. From here you can see very clearly how large the area is, which has already been burned down in a controlled manner by the rangers of the Serengeti to allow the new grass to grow optimally. For a long time, the Maasai living here have also done this in order to be able to offer their herds of cattle enough fresh grass. Where it has already rained a bit, the first fresh blades of grass are already sprouting. Soon everything will be green and blooming again.
In between, we see again and again the brown, withered grassy areas and individual animals, mostly antelopes. We also make out a large herd of elephants in the distance.
Then we drive over a larger stream, big enough to spot some hippos there in a small lake. A hippopotamus cow is on land with her calf and trots there to a feeding place or another place in the water.
It’s great to see something like this from above without the animals hearing us
After the balloon ride over the Serengeti
Unfortunately, the trip across the Serengeti is over after an hour. The pilot makes a fairly soft landing. The support vehicle is already there. We are welcomed with champagne and a certificate. Photos are taken and our email addresses are requested, because we can later view and buy the photos and videos taken on board.
This tour is an absolute highlight of the trip! A kind of aerial safari through the Serengeti. Off we go into the minibus and have breakfast in the bush. There we get spoiled almost royally with an incredible brunch. The staff ask us about our wishes, and everything is freshly prepared in the outdoor kitchen. People having their birthday and honeymooners are honored with singing and dancing.
Under no circumstances should you miss the walk to the “quiet place” here. This is an experience in itself! Proper toilets in small tents with an unobstructed view of the savannah! Of course, there is also an employee at a discreet distance so that no animal gourmet can sneak up unnoticed. The scents from the kitchen simply have to have a seductive effect on the animals.
After the “bush meal” we are taken to a meeting point in the Serengeti, where we meet the rest of our group. The five of us probably all have a slightly stupid smile on our faces, because we are greeted with a “Well? That must have been a real experience!” expected from the others. The rest of the group did a very early safari tour. Together we go back to the camp, where brunch is also available for the others.
Last evening in the Serengeti
Yes, that’s how fast fantastic days in the Serengeti come to an end! In the afternoon, a sunset safari is on the agenda.
In the meantime, we have seen the “Big 5”. A leopard laid down to sleep on a tree one day and with binoculars or a good camera, it was easy to observe.
We are spoiled with three cheetahs, whose color hardly stands out from the grasses of the savannah. They don’t let themselves be disturbed at first, but then they trot off and we don’t want to follow them. They certainly want to hunt, and we would simply be useless.
Shortly before reaching the camp, several jeeps gathered at one place. It’s getting dark soon, what is there to be seen?
A leopard is on the hunt. We see him walking past our jeep. With big jumps, he disappears behind rocks in seconds. We can’t follow him and that’s a good thing.
Last night in Tanzania
Through the Serengeti we now go back. It´s our last morning safari.
Several lion families cross our path. Above all, we find with two lionesses who look after their cubs together. If the little ones get too cheeky, they get a slap with the paw, otherwise they are quite relaxed and are not at all irritated by the jeeps and the clicking cameras. In total, we were able to observe 43 lions on our trip.
Late afternoon we arrive at the
Highview Coffee Lodge
A hotel in a coffee plantation. The manager personally leads us through the plantation at sunset. Not only coffee is grown, but also fruit and vegetables. Hopefully we will get to eat the vegetables grown here tonight!
The rooms are really big with a huge terrace. That’s why a small black “big cat” has made itself comfortable on the sofa. We watch her sleep while we have a fantastic cup of coffee in the room.
Zanzibar
In the morning, we have a long drive to Arusha to the airport. Traffic is increasing, but the road is well developed. Before we get on the plane in the afternoon, we have lunch so that we don’t starve on the short flight to Zanzibar…
Unfortunately, we have to arrive at the airport very early, because the check-in takes quite a long time, almost everything is still done manually. However, the new airport building is already finished next door. Surely it will soon be easier, also for the employees at the airport.
At some point, our flight is finally called, and we walk across the runway to the plane. Mount Meru lies in front of us without any clouds. Nice last picture of the volcano.
With the last rays of the sun, we land on Zanzibar. The drive to the hotel takes about an hour and it is pitch dark as soon as we leave Stonetown. Too bad, I would have liked to see a little of the island.
Aqua Beach Resort
Now hungry, we arrive at the hotel just in time for dinner. It is located directly on the beach, the palm trees in the complex are a little illuminated, the large rooms leave nothing to be desired. It’s a barefoot hotel, so we get out of your shoes and feel the still warm sand under your feet and off to eat.
Wonderful, it’s so delicious and we really let ourselves be pampered. If you like, you can linger afterwards in the open bar or on the terrace.
Two full days
Yes, we could book some excursions, for diving or snorkeling, to the mangroves, to Stonetown. Unfortunately, the weather forecast looks like rain, so we prefer to treat ourselves to a fantastic massage. After the rocking in the jeeps, the pampering is pure!
It rains every now and then, but it’s time enough to splash around in the sea, if it’s not far away because of low tide. We take a long walk on the white beach, or we just laze around. After all, its vacation, even though I’ve accompanied my customers here and I’m actually “on duty”…
The two days fly by with good food, a bit of swimming in the pool, listening to the rain, reading on one of the comfortable loungers on the beach or spending a little time at the bar with the rest of the group.
Then it’s back to the airport, finally I can see a little bit of this lush green Isle. There is a lot of cultivation and nature seems to be exploding.
Goodbye Zanzibar! Will we see each other again?
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